The End

Our second to last day was defined by relaxation and reflection. Having dealt with a plethora of issues and explored the multitude of sides of Israeli life, we devoted today to purely enjoying the country and each other. In the morning, we went on a gentle hike around Gamla, at the top of the Golan Heights, a few kilometers west of the Syrian border. The site of the beginning of the first Jewish rebellion against the Romans in 67 CE, the area today is an impressive showcase of the beauty of the north of Israel. Overlooking the mountain and the ancient fortifications, we connected to the past directly by understanding that we were the links to the future and through us the memory of the past would live on. Then, we walked the short course to the waterfall, admiring the vultures and other birds of prey that inhabit the valley below.

Back on the bus, we embarked on perhaps the most entertaining hands-on activity of the trip by visiting the De Karina Chocolate Factory located on a kibbutz in the Golan. We watched an educational video about the production of chocolate and then saw first-hand the factory floor, where raw chocolate was melted down and then shaped into all sorts of delicacies including truffles, bars, and pralines. As master chocolatiers skillfully handled the chocolate, we marveled at how this substance which somany of us treasure so greatly, actually goes from bean to consumable form. Then, in a workshop room next door, we got to design our own chocolates, using pre-made shells, chocolate syrup (dark, milk, and white) and raw chocolate. Hibernating artists among us finally got their chance to shine. As we waited for our creations to cool down, we treated ourselves to genuine hot chocolate and stocked up on souvenir goodies.

After lunch, we made our way to the Hamat Hot Springs, where we enjoyed an early evening sulfur bath. Although the smell was difficult for the nostrils, the beneficial properties of the water refreshed and re-energized the many of us who frolicked in the pool. Included was a leisurely dinner and some down time, an opportunity to kick back, talk, and just purely enjoy each other. After a break back at the hotel, we got down to the serious business of reflection, of trying to come to terms of what this trip has meant for us. First, we recalled the places, people and things we had seen. Then we wrote, focusing on the question of what we would bring back with us, of what from this trip would live on in our memories and in our psyches.

“I have gained a greater appreciation for the intricacies of the holy land of Israel. I have explored the wondrous beauty of its cities, deserts, and hills; while also recognizing the harsh realities of Israel and the Middle East. While this experience has not changed my view that Israel cannot be my homeland, I now appreciate the allure that overcomes each Jewish American who makes Aliyah, while I also can clearly identify my serious challenges with Israel. I sometimes struggle to find meaning in Israel, but I still identify myself as a Zionist who strongly supports the democratic and holy ideals of Israel, while also recognizing that Israel cannot survive solely by idealistic aspirations. Overall, Israel is holy place for me, where Judaism is enlightened and where I feel comfortable, safe, and spiritual.”

Iszy Licht

As our trip winds down tomorrow in Tel Aviv, we will be returning to the states, to CJHS, to our regular lives. Fairly soon, the mundane concerns of that world will return and take up our attention and this trip will settle comfortably into the recesses of our memories. But we certainly will not forget it. All the details may not remain clear, but the general impressions, connections, and relationships forged throughout our three weeks in Israel will stay with us, always there, always reminding us of what a great and meaningful time it was, always inspiring us in our future endeavors. We set out on a long journey to discover the hidden sides of Israel not always evident in tourist trips or sightseeing excursions; in the process, we believe we discovered a lot about ourselves and the role that Israel plays in our developing identities. Collectively and individually, each of us is returning home with new insights and new dreams, dramatically affected by our experience. We are grateful to all those that made this possible, and we are thankful to ourselves, each and every one of whom played his or her part in making the Senior Israel Experience what it was. As the culminating event of our CJHS careers, there could not have been a more powerful and transformative way to give meaning to our four years.
Thank you.

A Personal Reflection

"Perhaps my most eye-opening experience occurred today. We arrived in Kiryat Shemona to paint railings, plant trees, and prepare soil for a garden. Rabbi Barkan pulled me aside in the midst of my chalutz-esque labor and led me up some stairs. My initial reaction was to run through a mental list of things he might get me in trouble for. I could lie and tell you I'm perfect and don't ever get into trouble, but perfect sounds rather boring to me.

Anyways, we reached the top of the stairs and came across two men sitting on a bench. One was your typical black-hatter: tzitzit, pe'ot, a suit, the whole nine yards. The second man was a conservative Moroccan Jew who fiddled around with his cigarette. We began discussing (strictly in Hebrew) the values of co-existence, both within Judaism and between Jews and Arabs. The Hasidic Jew quickly refuted my prejudice by pointing out that in Kiryat Shemona, Jews live under one denomination, regardless of their level of observance. Beyond that, in response to Rabbi Barkan's question regarding inter-faith relations, both men smirked. The notion of actually disliking Arabs seemed so foreign to both these men that they asked if Rabbi Barkan was serious.

Their city, brushing up against the Lebanese border, is a constant target of terrorism and its stresses. Yet Rabbi Barkan and I selected two random pedestrians who were among the purest people I have ever met. They gave me an impression of their lives that could not be found in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, or even a kibbutz. There are no Hasidim, Masorti or Reform Jews in Kiryat Shemona. There are no Arabs either. There are only people, people who believe in God, and more importantly, each other.

In an exaggerated CJHS fashion, those people come together and unconditionally love each other. Their business with God is only between them and God, with no opposition despite the vast spectrum of religious affiliations. Who better to discuss the issue of co-existence than an ultra-orthodox rabbi, a conservative Rabbi, a, with all due respect, scraggly looking, cigarette smoking immigrant, and a teenage boy? The more important question: where else would this happen but Israel?"

Jake Rudolph

Traversing the North

Little is more important to the realization and maintenance of strong group connection and understanding than a little time apart. After an intensive two weeks together, we all went our separate ways to celebrate this past Shabbat. The majority stayed in the environs of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, others went further afield, but all benefited from time together with family and friends outside the CJHS circle. After minor hiccups (and other bodily functions) we were all re-united on Sunday morning and set our course due north. The final days of our trip will be spent exploring northern Israel and its fascinating history, culture, and geography.

Sunday took us to Givat Haviva, an educational center in the Wadi Ara valley focusing on a variety of concerns including Israeli-Arab co-existence, Arabic language school, and an educational program for the IDF. Our seminar leader Lydia, a Welsh Jew who has lived on a kibbutz in the area for the last forty years, enlightened us with her personal experiences with anti-Semitism in Wales, her decision to make aliyah, and her work over the past decades toward facilitating and promoting understanding between Israeli Jews and Israeli Arabs. The center is located near the Green Line, in an area called the little triangle, which is home to 15,000 Jews and 150,000 Israeli Arabs. We spent a part of the day learning the history and the unique set of circumstances that have faced this rather substantial portion of the Israeli population through many years of conflict, intifadas and peace overtures. As they have struggled to both accept themselves as Israeli citizens and somehow maintain their Arab roots, so we too struggled to understand the effects this reality has had on the development of Israel.

The abstractions of the classroom were powerfully brought to the ground when we visited the Arab village of Barta’a. Immediately following the War of Independence, the Green Line cut this village directly in half, with the eastern half under Jordanian rule and the western half under Israeli rule. Families were literally split apart and the town lived under two governments technically in a state of war with each other. This situation continued for nearly twenty years, when in the wake of the 1967 war, the entire town once again came under Israeli control, with the exception that those in the west were Israeli citizens and those in the east were not. During the intifadas, when the Palestinians in the east participated in the hostilities, their neighbors in the west did not, causing further tensions within this town. After the security fence was constructed, Barta’a was a rare exception when the fence did not run along the Green Line, but rather included the entire town within the Israeli side. Today, the Green Line is literally a ditch that runs through the middle of town. We walked around the village, spoke to some of its inhabitants, tried to get their perspective of things. Overall, it was definitely an eye opening experience of this, yet another, complex side of Israel.

We spent the evening in Kibbutz Hannaton, one of the fledgling kibbutzim of the Conservative (Masorti) movement in Israel. We heard its rabbi speak of the challenges of establishing and maintaining a pluralistic religious institution and share some of our thoughts on the matter. The night concluded on an especially high note as we watched our very own Bears advance over the Seahawks in the playoffs.

The next day took us even further north, to the very border with Lebanon. As we drove next to minefields and looked into the Lebanese countryside, we heard from our new tour guide Nero of the various issues and successes in this part of the country: the historical conflicts of 1982 and 2006, the ongoing conflict with Hizbullah, the success story of draining the swamps and creating fertile agricultural communities, the struggles to extract adequate water from the land, and the natural beauty of the Galilee region. We went on short nature walk through the Banias, an ancient site connected to many peoples and cultures that have made a part of their history in the Middle East (starting with the ancient Israelites, and continuing through the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and finally the Jews in the modern day). Walking on slightly muddy ground, we weaved and turned our way through this nature park, finally ending up by the beautiful waterfall, where we stopped for pictures.

After a pizza lunch and some reflection, our afternoon was spent in Kiryat Shemona, working with an organization called Ayaleen. Founded by Israeli youth as a national service organization to supplement army service, the program settles young adults in towns and villages throughout the Galilee and the Negev, allowing them to integrate and interact with the surrounding communities. Especially focusing on either underdeveloped areas or those areas suffering from urban decay, these youth aim at revitalizing neighborhoods and making them friendlier, safer places to live. When it came to Kiryat Shemona, the area was suffering from a high crime rate, drug addiction, and a general sense of despair and inability to escape. Within seven years, things have gradually started to turn around and the community is starting to thrive once again. Our students spent time painting fence railings, planting trees, and preparing the soil for a future memorial garden. Contributing directly to the betterment of this community inspired us in many ways and helped us see the vision of a sector of Israeli youth who are dedicated to keeping Israel a vibrant and environmentally aware nation. As evening approached, we drove through Tiberias toward our home for the next two nights at Ohalo Manor, a beautiful hotel overlooking the Sea of Galilee. After a filling dinner and some fun games, we retired for the night, preparing for our second to last day here.

Making Our Way Back Up North

"After a chilly night, we davened, dined, and dashed. Our next stop was the heart-shaped wonder of Machtesh Ramon, a naturally formed crater named for the Romans who used the area as a trade route. Breaking from the expansive wilderness that transformed our last few days, we toured the home of David Ben Gurion, former Prime Minister and champion of the Negev. After discussing the character of Ben Gurion, we sang Hatikva around his gravesite as the sun set over the mountains. In the evening, we began our brief stay at Mashavei Sadeh with "Refusenik", a documentary detailing the journey of Soviet Jewry. A part of our exploration of the demographic makeup of Israel today, the documentary explained the desires of over 3,000,000 Soviet Jews to leave the USSR, the government's refusal to allow them to, and what it meant to live in such refusal. Our students were suprised to learn of the immense efforts of world's Jewry to free the Soviet Jews, especially in the United States. As we finished our last full day in the south, the bond forged between the group and the land became even more apparent. Nearly all of us have been to Israel before, and each time we are asked if we "connected". For many, answering in the affirmative was a way of appeasing expectant teachers or group leaders. It seemed like what we were supposed to say. This time, there was a shift. The individuals in the class of 2011 seemed to truly find something in the desolate beauty of the sandstone and granite, something powerful and inexplicable. We want to stay in touch with this place, by means physical or cognitive. This blogger has a feeling we will all find a way to do so." Aliza Small
After waking up in our luxurious lodgings and davening, we piled onto the bus and continued our drive north to the development town of Yeruham. Founded in the early 1950s, it was one of the many such towns designed to accommodate the sudden influx of Jews Israel experienced in the first decade of its existence. The task of absorbing the DPs, the emigrating Jewish refugees from the Middle East, and all others eager to make the new state their home was challenging: the population literally more than doubled and all those people needed jobs, places to live, and the attendant infrastructure. Israel engaged in a decade of building. One solution was to develop the Negev, with many towns springing up from the ground and constructing all the appropriate buildings. Schools, hospitals, houses and apartments, stores, community centers, synagogues. Many of these towns still stand today and are struggling in their self-definition in the 21st century. The same problems that accompanied their founding are no longer as relevant, so they in some ways are socio-economic dinosaurs, not attracting the residents and the investment to make the community thrive. We discovered this by walking the streets, interviewing the people, getting of glimpse of this, yet another way of life in Israel. What we discovered surprised us. While many expressed the traditional stereotype of “wanting to escape this dead end town,” some expressed their love for it and defended their decisions to raise their families here. We visited a community center, a technology building, and a school and understood a little bit more about this side of Israel. We concluded our time in Yerucham by making paper kites and drawing our “visions for the future” on them. Flying the kites, with some soaring high and others failing to make flight, we learned relevant lessons about the need to persevere with certain visions, the need to drop or step aside with others. We left Yerucham and made our way for the heart of modern Israel, Tel Aviv. A modern metropolis in the Middle East, the city boasts a big population and has everything a modern city should have. As we get ready for dinner and our outing at a play performed by the deaf and blind, we also prepare for our Free Weekend, where our students will stay with friends or relatives throughout Israel. Although our time here is gradually drawing to a close, there is still plenty left. We wish you a wonderful upcoming Shabbat and will return on Sunday with new updates. Kol tuv.	r

24 Hours in the Desert

"For some, the desert is a place of clear skies and deep breaths. Not so for our seven brave warriors of mild sickness, who were held back at beautiful Kibbutz Ketura for some much needed r&r. Staying with them was our incomparable blog master, Mr. Marchenko. Many thanks to him for his beautiful blogging thus far! His brief hiatus will end shortly.


After a lovely breakfast, we left Kibbutz Ketura and made our way to Yutvata for some famously delicious dairy. Our stomachs filled (perhaps inconveniently), we set out for the 24-Hour Desert Experience.


As the expanse of land became more majestically desolate, the presence of kibbutzim dwindled. 6 miles north of Eilat and flanked by visible Egypt and Jordan, we arrived at our campsite and found it expertly set up by Avia and Ofer, the unofficial nature brigade.


Ofer served as our teacher for the excursion. Standing above a section of the Syrio-African rift, we were taught to locate ourselves on the planet. At the tip of the crossroads between Africa and Asia, our place in the world became both clear and minuscule.


Armed with mind-boggling geography, we began the day's hike. Beforehand, it was described as a nice ambling path, looping through canyons and impressive mountain views. The scenery was indeed wonderful, but the incline of the wadi left many with sore legs. Still, the ongoing lessons in desert geology and botany was well worth it. at many points, the port city of Aqaba was visible over the hills, reminding us just how close we were to Israel's southernmost point.



Post-hike, we returned to the camp for some tent arranging, down time, and a good 'ol pot of camping soup. Some students took time to wander down the mountain paths, exploring the rocky plateaus and miniature canyons of the Negev as the sun set. We then gathered for dinner by the fire, prepared by the staff and students. Stomachs full and shoes dusty, the students participated in a stealthy game of capture the flag by moonlight, sneaking like ibex through inch-high brush and perilous stones.



The temperature dropped steadily as the moon rose higher. Bundled up around the fire, Ishai, our madrich, taught everyone how to identify constellations and spot Polaris. Following the crash course in astronomy, the true spirit of our grade emerged once again. As the flames turned to embers, we reflected on transitions and the courses of our lives. Just as we sat at the crossroads of tectonic plates, countries, and continents, so too do we stand at a crossroads of our respective life journeys.



Though the fire died and the winds picked up, we dozed off still contemplating. The gorgeous silence that permeated our surroundings will stay with us for quite awhile. Artistic credit for this blog entry goes to oseh ma'aseh breishit"

Aliza Small

"Kibbutzniks"

In the itinerary, this morning’s first event was described simply: “hike to mountain overlook for tefillah.” But it failed to do justice to the majesty that we encountered. Following a narrow, windy, and rocky path, we made our way out of the kibbutz and into the mountains of the Negev. Harrowing at points, gently sloping at others, we ascended a series of peaks while the beautiful vista expanded around us. Each time we arrive at an apparent peak, thinking we had arrived, gigantic chunks of the mountains were revealed to us. This happened literally three times, but we finally arrived at the top and overlooked the Arava Valley below us to the east and the continuation of the Negev to the west. Many have tried but few have been capable of describing the stunning natural beauty of the mountains and the valleys of this region. As we began davening, many thoughts turned to Moses and Sinai and the conditions faced on that mountain. Looking out, if we for a second imagined that the road was not there, nor the green leafy patch of the kibbutz, the landscape cannot have changed much over the past couple of thousand years. As we learned, the Arava valley, which forms the natural border between Jordan and Israel in the south, sits on the Afro-Syrian ridge, where two tectonic plates meet and are apparently rubbing against each other (to the point that over the last 19 million years, the land of Israel and the land of Jordan have been moving in opposite directions, around 150 kilometers, to be exact). But with human settlement here, the view was similar to that beheld by the ancient Israelites, and davening in this space, high above the earth and nature’s glory was a sacred experience. The way down, while quicker, was far scarier because we were constantly looking down at the ground far, far away. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAyygi_Ecz8

After an al fresco breakfast outside, we learned about efforts on the kibbutz to introduce organic farming to Israel. While some strides have been made, Israel still lags behind in these efforts compared to the United States. Nonetheless, more and more Israelis are becoming interested in growing and buying produce certified as organic and there are movements within the so-called eco-kosher community to bring together kashrut and organic ideologies. At Ketura, the community organic garden is still quite small and there are no plans for commercial organic farming as of yet, but there is an educational component to it, as well as hands on. We mulched in the vegetable garden and weeded the flower one.

After lunch and some down time, we boarded the bus and headed back out to the Negev. Ascending up out of the Arava valley, we entered a lonely stretch of road, surrounded by the hilly and rocky desert on both sides. Stopping seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we got off the bus with nothing but vast expanse on either side of us, with an Air Force base and the Sinai deep in the horizon to the west. After another minor trek upwards, we ascended a peak where we found the famous Negev sand dunes. We took off our shoes and socks and enjoyed a good hour in the finest, softest sand almost anywhere on the planet. Careening down the hill, then scrambling up for more, it was a physical yet extremely entertaining time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp1Y5lmGdBw

What followed was perhaps one of the most meaningful experiences of the trip, if not entire lifetimes.

As the sun set to the west, we separated, each individual finding a spot of solitude in the dunes, looking out at the seemingly infinite stretch of mountains and desert. Sitting, alone, we were left to our thoughts, our feelings, cut off from everything but ourselves and the majestic power of the earth. For a good hour, we sat, reflected, interrupted only briefly by the sound of the shofar to let us know it was time to write about our experience. In the process, the remaining light of the day faded, as twilight descended on the desert in the light of the infant moon. After days and days of interactions and engagement with others and ourselves, suddenly, swiftly all that was removed. In an instant, we were transported into a timeless, eternal world that has not changed for millions of years, vigilantly standing still through night and day, winter and summer, war and peace. The power of the land truly took hold of our imaginations here.

Afterwards, around the campfire and over s’mores, we shared our experiences. To some, it was about beholding the immenseness of the universe, of feeling really small in a really large space, surrounded by billions of stars and galaxies, each with their own story to tell. To others, it was about the transformative silence, the most incredible silence there is: total to the point that paper falling to the ground or pencil writing on paper were literally deafening. And in that silence, in that tranquility, was an incredible connection to the past, to the present, to ancestors, and, most importantly, to a universal feeling of peace. Some described it as the ultimate act of solitude, an entrée to a live show of the cosmos unfolding. Still others referred to the overpowering loneliness, both physical and emotional, that overtook them and refused to let go. Some literally cried in a cathartic cleansing, while others mentioned the obvious and undeniable removal from the monotony and routine of patterned life. For some, although being in Israel for the 7^th time, it was only on this trip, and especially during this experience, that they realized a true connection to the country and a true love of the land. And finally, perhaps most importantly, the most commonly expressed feeling was one of connection between the students, of the veritable and tangible love that exists after years and years of knowing, trusting, and engaging with each other. Hearing student after student express this emotion lifted the spirits of the entire group above and beyond. As the fire began to die out and the stars, infinite in number, penetrated our consciousness, something nearly miraculous happened. Without a plan or announcement or warning, one by one the students began rising, standing shoulder to shoulder. As others realized what was happening, they too joined, without a single word, until finally the circle became complete, and we, a small group in the middle of a vast desert, formed an unbreakable whole, cemented by song. That singular memory will live in our hearts and minds forever. In fact, our guide David from the kibbutz, in all earnestness, told us that out of the hundreds of trips to the desert that he has conducted in his life, he has never, ever seen what he saw tonight --- the reflections, the insights, and the communal bond that holds together this unique and wonderful group of students. If there was ever a higher purpose to this trip, we found it tonight.

Back on the bus, back on the kibbutz, we ate a barbecue dinner and retired for the night, having rediscovered this beautiful connection between ourselves. Tonight we shall sleep like kings.

Down South

In a strange twist, the Jerusalem skies darkened with rain as we made our way to four different shuls for Shabbat services only to clear up for a wonderful evening of dinner and relaxation. Shabbat presented us with a great opportunity to re-charge, re-focus and resume our experience.

Early this morning, with bags packed, we boarded the bus, powered up the iPod, and began the long scenic drive south. The hills of Jerusalem, packed as they are with buildings and structures, gradually were replaced by the rolling Judean hills as we made our way out of the city and into the open country. From the bus, the mountains themselves seemed to be moving, swaying as if waves in an ocean, stretching back as far as the eye could see. Beautiful mounds, blending into each other, reminded us that this land is not just one of religious and cultural beauty but of immense natural beauty as well. The stones, rocks, and formations, in themselves not so complex, came together to create a vivid and stirring image. Seamlessly, far off at first, the road wound its way nearer to the Dead Sea; with ears popping, we had descended a whopping kilometer and a half below Jerusalem to reach the lowest point on planet Earth. The majestic power of the water merited a quick stop to say hello and take some pictures, and we were on our way again, swaying rhythmically to the beats of the bus. Driving past Massada but not stopping was a welcome reminder that we are not tourists here and have a more important mission.

Our home for the next two days will be Kibbutz Ketura, located half hour north of Eilat, in the middle of the Negev. As we pulled in, we witnessed the powerful vistas of the Jordanian mountains to the east and the Negev mountains to the west, and sandwiched in between, the expanse of the desert and the buildings of the kibbutz. Our experience of communal living started with hearing a lecture from a professor at the Arava Institute, a college located on the premises of the kibbutz that specializes in environmental research. Among its many endeavors is exploring renewable energy resources, whether through photovoltaic cells, biomass recycling, or hydrogen-boron automobile technology. Offering degrees in renewable energy and bringing together Israeli Jews, Israeli Arabs, Jordanian Arabs, and non-Middle Eastern students, the Institute is one of a kind in that it promotes co-existence through engaging in studies devoted for future sustainability. Many students responded to this newly acquired knowledge with desires to spend significant time at this kibbutz during their college years. Afterwards, standing at a symbolic spot of a bunker from the 1967 war we appreciated just how much has happened since then by looking at the future home of the first solar power plant in Israel and the thousands of boxes holding the solar cells. Knowing that Israel is at the forefront of research and technology of this type is a comforting experience.

Our evening was spent on the waterfront promenade at Eilat, taking in the sights, sounds, and tasty delicacies of this resort town. With three hours of free time, we had a wonderful opportunity to get a full sense of this town, some of us even choosing to go to great heights… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FLICK0H8zI

We returned to the kibbutz and heard from a panel of current kibbutz residents, all our age, who discussed the beauty, challenge, and reward of living on kibbutz. The fundamental difference of communal life from the kind of life we are all used to was compelling and insightful to behold. Composed of some 150 permanent members and 350 part-time residents, these kibbutzniks have chosen to forsake private property and personal income (two fundamental realities of the modern world) and instead engage in a cooperative enterprise aimed at creating a better life for themselves. Whether through the aforementioned Institute or through the dairy farm or through a specialized algae growth and processing facility (which produces a special anti-aging product commonly found in health foods, medicines, and cosmetics), all are engaged in meaningful work for the sake of collective, not individual success. Many are raising their families here, teaching timeless and essential values that often fall away in the world outside. Spending a couple of days here will definitely teach us an alternative viewpoint on life and we definitely look forward to seeing where it will take us.

Shabbat Shalom!

Spending Shabbat in Israel is special; spending it in Jerusalem is down-right magical. As we prepare for Shabbat and say farewell to our long, complex week, we rejoice in everything we’ve been able to do, see and experience.

Our morning started with a learning session at the Conservative Yeshiva located within our hostel complex. Reading texts from the Talmud, Midrash, and Tanach, we focused on the idea of power, its possession and the attendant responsibilities. The Jewish people have, for the majority of their history, been dispossessed of power, in political and other senses. But through Israel, they have gained power but also discovered that having power brings all sorts of other responsibilities, pressures, and obligations that those that are dispossessed do not have. After a brief hevruta session, we engaged in marvelous and challenging discussions of the ramifications of the acquisition of such power and what it means.

From there, we went on a Tikkun Olam mission to an organization very similar to the Ark in Chicago. As previously stated here, in the states, we may not always think about the complex social pyramid in Israel and the fact that the gap between rich and poor is quite substantial. For a variety of reasons, the impoverished of Israel form a multitude with needs, hopes and dreams that are regularly not being met by the ebb and flow of society an large. And so organizations such as this one exist to meet both immediate needs through a food pantry and a soup kitchen serving thousands of Israelis and more long-term needs through vocational training and medical services. After watching a video and interacting with the clients, we went to the warehouse where we made packages for the poor by filling bags with all sorts of essential food supplies. Needless to say, such a direct form of Tikkun Olam really brought home the potential that humans have for contributing to change in a society.

Our pre-Shabbat afternoon concluded with a visit to the Jerusalem Market, a frenzied bazaar offering the entire array of Middle Eastern delicacies, vegetables, meats, and everything else in between. Showcasing the most vibrant of Israeli life, our students filed through the alleys and the stalls, tasting the best of what Jerusalem has to offer. And now, we’re preparing for candle-lighting and our first Shabbat in Israel as a group. We are grateful for being here, thankful to all of those who made it possible, and wishing all our parents, friends, and loved ones a wonderful Shabbat.

Shabbat Shalom!

Further Down the Rabbit Hole

For many Jews in the United States, Israel is an ideal. It is the Jewish home, defined by images, symbols, hopes and dreams, connected with via prayers, trips, and advocacy. We learn about it, hear about it, form our opinions and conceptions. But from thousands of miles away, the reality of life here may not always translate. As we are discovering, it is an amazing but also a very complex society filled with unique challenges and visions.

Our day began on the other side of the Green Line, the border between Israel and the territories occupied by Israel in the wake of the 1967 war. Known by many names, with each name carrying its own loaded connotation, these territories are home to many people. The majority are Palestinian Arabs who have either lived here since before 1948 or as refugees of the War of Independence. A growing minority are Jewish settlers who, for a variety of reasons, have chosen to make the West Bank their home. Our first stop was in the series of Jewish towns and villages that make up Gush Ezyon. Riding in an armored bus, we crossed the checkpoint into Area C (which remains under Israeli military control) and made our way through the Judean Hills to Gush Ezyon. There, we watched an informative video that traced the history of Jewish settlement of this region in the 1920s and 1930s, during the British Mandate. The settlements were lost during the War of Independence, but when Israel regained the territories during 1967, the children of the original Gush Ezyon settlers decided to reclaim their ancestors’ lands and to restart the settlement. Today, it is a diverse and thriving community of several kibbutzim that engage in a variety of agricultural pursuits. The Jews living here see it as a continuation of their parents’ and grandparents’ hopes and dreams.

Next, we went to Efrat, a town built on a series of seven hills over the last thirty years. We were joined by Bob Lang who told us the history of the town, pointing out the schools, the community centers, and the synagogues that today serve some 2,000 families, a slight majority of whom are native Israelis with the rest immigrants. Bob presented us with his viewpoints, about peace, about why he is living here, about the future of Israel. His views are representative of many who live in Efrat: they live here because it is the heart of Biblical Israel, the site of the earliest dwellings of Jews and the paths traveled by the Patriarchs. Asked about what he envisions as the solution to the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, especially in light of settlements in the West Bank being considered one of the remaining unresolved obstacles to peace, Bob unveiled for us his ideal of a one state solution, with Israel stretching from the Mediterranean to the Jordan River, a democracy integrating all those that live there. It was a powerful testament of one man’s convictions and world-view that drive and motivate him in living his life in the way he has. After intense questioning from our students, they emerged more knowledgeable and aware of the variety of views Israelis hold regarding Israel’s future.

As we made our way back across the Green Line, we went to an institute that specializes in the cross-roads of modern technology and Halachic law. We were treated to a wonderful demonstration by its executive director who spoke about the challenges of keeping Shabbat in the modern world and the institute’s efforts to allow the use of technology in ways that do not violate the Shabbat restrictions. Ranging from basic grama mechanisms that govern the use of lights and telephones, to more complex structures like metal detectors, video surveillance, and computers, we learned about the innovative ways being explored in Israel to both minimize the violations of Shabbat restrictions by people like doctors and to fully incorporate oneg Shabbat via modern technology.

After a short break and dinner, we returned to the themes of conflict and peace by meeting with an organization called the Parents’ Circle, composed of families from both sides of the conflict who have lost loved ones to it. In powerful and moving speeches, an Israeli and a Palestinian described their life stories, focusing on their experiences of loss and reconciliation. Hearing a bereaving Israeli admit that the only thing that gave meaning to his life after his loss was the opportunity to share and connect with Palestinians with similar situations was a touching and deeply meaningful experience. We all know the immediate responses to loss of this kind (sadness, anger, desire for revenge) and the efforts of this organization to overcome all of these to arrive at something more significant are true testaments to working toward peace at the grassroots level. Whether by setting up anonymous telephone conversations between Israelis and Palestinians or by tireless lecture campaigns throughout Israel and the territories, the Parents’ Circle is bringing their vision of peace and co-existence to prominence.

For most of us, our night concluded with viewing a powerful drama about yet another side of Israel. Called Ajami, the movie centered around this neighborhood of Jaffa where the lives of Jews, Arabs, and Bedouins are mixed in complex and intricate ways. Various plotlines, from the nearly tribal settlement of blood feuds among Arabs and Bedouins, the illegal immigration of workers from the West Bank, the difficult job of the police to mediate disputes between Arabs and Jews, and the desperate need for money for its impoverished residents, came together in dramatic fashion to demonstrate yet again that life in Israel is far from simple.

These glimpses into the life of Israel are coming together to form a more complete picture. While Israel definitely remains an ideal, it is one that is being adorned with all sorts of new, heretofore unconsidered images and realities. It is our hope that in the end, even with all this complexity in tow, we will appreciate it even more.

What is Israel?

A major goal of this trip is to gain some insight into the realities of life in modern Israel. Of course, such a task is infinitely diverse and complex and we cannot hope to fully understand it all. But little by little, we are chipping away and getting some sense of what it means to live here today.

What is Israel? Israel is a military society, where the IDF forms a fundamental part of Israelis’ awareness. We began our day with a visit to an organization founded about a decade ago dedicated to preparing and sending care packages to soldiers in the IDF. Some of our students prepared bags full of clothing, food, and other essential articles, while others wrote letters of encouragement and support. Based on commentary afterward, our students found it meaningful to make a difference in this way, especially after interacting with some troops who came to pick up the packages. Please check out their website at www.apackagefromhome.org and help if you can.

What is Israel? Israel is a religious society, but one that struggles with religious pluralism. We heard from Izhar Hess, the executive director of the Masorti movement in Israel. Officially, many aspects of religious life in Israel are controlled by the Chief Rabbinate, which, with its orthodox bent, has often presented obstacles to Jews practicing within the Reform and Conservative strains of Judaism. For instance, weddings can only be conducted by rabbis via the Rabbinate, and many couples are now choosing to get married outside of Israel, often due to complaints that the ceremonies officiated by these rabbis are devoid of feelings and emotions. Some thirty years ago, the Masorti movement, which is the name of the Conservative movement in Israel, emerged to represent more egalitarian strains of worship and has consistently represented various causes since that time. We learned about its efforts to conduct marriage ceremonies, to promote the conversion of many Soviet Jewish immigrants, to assist with the Bar and Bat Mitzvahs of teenagers with special needs, and to support the growth of more and more Conservative congregations. Discovering the challenges and rewards of being a non-Orthodox religious Jew in Israel was definitely an eye-opening and moving experience.

What is Israel? Israel is a sovereign nation facing tremendous challenges in the security arena, both today and throughout its history. In the afternoon, we returned to our study of co-existence by learning about the history of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict by visiting various sites that brought that history to life. At a panoramic overlook of the city, we saw the border boundary that separated Israeli controlled West Jerusalem from the Jordanian controlled East Jerusalem from 1948 to 1967 and discussed what it meant when Israel re-conquered and annexed East Jerusalem during the Six Day War. Moving further south, we saw the Har Homa development block, which was built after the 1993 Oslo Accords in the territory of East Jerusalem and discussed the impact of such settlements on any future agreement. And finally, and perhaps most powerfully, we visited the southern boundary of present-day Jerusalem at Gilo, overlooking the Palestinian village of Beit Jala. For the first time during the trip, we saw the Security Barrier and discussed the reasons for its construction and the impact it has had. Finally, we made our way to Rachel’s Tomb, which just ten years ago stood on the open road from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, but today stands overshadowed by a special corridor surrounded on both sides by massive concrete walls. Needless to say, the mixed feelings and emotions of going to a holy site while being entirely engulfed by these gigantic drab walls were powerful and begged for much reflection. We returned to the hostel and for some time discussed the emotions of the day thus far.

What is Israel? Israel is a political democracy, harboring many viewpoints across the political spectrum. In the early evening, we heard from a speaker representing Peace Now, an organization that works across the Zionist political spectrum in order to educate and raise awareness of the possibilities and obstacles to peace. We learned about their activities with regard to Settlement Watch, which monitors the building of settlements in the territories (since they are officially under military control, that information is not readily available to the public) and about their general awareness and publicity campaigns. Students asked important questions about the current state of peace negotiations and the possibilities of peace in the near future.

And finally, to conclude our day, we returned to the themes of our morning by meeting with a mechina, which is a pre-military gap year service organization for Israeli youth. Led by alum Jacquie Zaluda, our students visited the parents of Gilad Shalit who have been holding a daily sit-in for him for some six months right outside our hostel. We then returned and discussed the delicate and complex situation faced by the IDF and Israeli society with regard to Gilad and why, after nearly four and a half years, he still remains in captivity in Gaza. For our students to have an intimate session with peers only a few years older and to discover the type of life they lead had a tremendous effect on their awareness.

So, our answer to the question grew more complex but we are far from finished. So many pieces of the puzzle remain and we shall continue our search.

In the Middle of Everything

Our first full day really set the tone for the entire trip. Ostensibly, the theme for today was the exploration of the dominant cultures and ethnicities that have historically made Jerusalem their home. By looking at them closely and examining how they have co-existed, as well as at the attendant tensions, we became more aware of how the city has absorbed these traditions in quite a unique way.

We began at Robinson’s Arch, located at the southern end of the Western Wall, where we davened, standing on excavated stones dating back to Roman times and looking up at the Wall as it appeared to passersby some two thousand years ago. Because the Kotel is considered an orthodox synagogue, we were not be able to hold egalitarian prayer services there and had to make do with the more removed, but also more private and quiet, area of the wall. From there, we made our way up to the Temple Mount and saw the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock up close, while discussing the reality of what it means for Jews not to be able to freely visit the Temple Mount and why the situation historically turned out this way. For nearly everyone in our group, this was the first time we were able to ascend up, which proved to be a deeply reflective experience.

After this immersion in the Jewish and Muslim experience of the Temple Mount, we made our way across the Jewish and Muslim quarters of the Old City to the Christian Quarter, where we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the site considered by Christians to be the location of the crucifixion and the resurrection of Jesus, which makes it among the holiest of sites of Christianity and explains a great deal of the importance of Jerusalem for those of the Christian faith. Weaving around the tight and ancient spaces of the Old City, we had a solid break for lunch and reconvened at the City of David, an archaeological site just outside the Old City that houses some of the very first remains of a Jewish presence in Jerusalem, dating back over three thousand years. Buried under ground during Jordanian rule over East Jerusalem, it was discovered shortly after 1967 and has since also become home to some 80 Jewish families who consider it to be the true heart of Jewish Jerusalem and have made it a point to live here. We were privileged to visit the home of one of these families and hear about the views of those choosing to live here and their responses to questions about what it means to live in contested territory.

After the City of David, our evening was spent listening to a speaker from a group called Ma’aglei Tzedek that specializes in licensing Israeli businesses, mostly in the food service industry, in just and humane conditions for their customers and workers. Because Israeli laws concerning handicapped access and employee rights have a difficult time being enforced, this group has taken it upon itself to get businesses to agree to its standards, thereby ensuring that justice is carried out in this way. Our day concluded with dinner on Emek Refaim street, a quaint bohemian neighborhood full of restaurants and shops.

One of the areas we are looking at closely during our trip is the intersection of Jewish, Muslim, and Christian histories, religions, and cultures and how all of them have legitimate and important stakes in Jerusalem. Some parts of this complex relationship have been worked out, such as the division of the Old City, but some parts, such as the final status of East Jerusalem, have not and remain thorny and intricate dilemmas to be resolved. By actually looking at the situation on the ground, learning about the history and the current reality, and speaking out about our views and opinions, our students are getting important real life insights into how Jerusalem operates in real time. While we are far from any conclusions, today was an energizing and tremendously thoughtful start to our journey.

It Has Begun

After much anticipation and preparation, thirty three of our seniors, along with four staff, have made it to Israel. We are here, tired, jet lagged, but we are here. So begins an eventful, educational and inspirational three weeks, during which time we hope to make many memories and share them with you. Please comment, share your thoughts, let us know what your impressions are. Tomorrow, Tuesday, January 4th, will be our first full day and what a memorable one it shall be. The Old City, the heart and soul of Jerusalem.

Check in soon.